Heading to Cameron Highlands in West Malaysia to marvel at nature’s wonders is easy. Mallika Naguran reviews the country experience at Bala’s Chalet as she sips tea and eats scones.
TANAH RATA, 8 October 2019. If you are looking for a tranquil spot to drink tea only to be interrupted by birds flitting over your head, make a beeline for Bala’s Chalet at Cameron Highlands.
A view of the scenic mountains from Bala’s Chalet guestroom, and a country garden for tea. Pic: Mallika Naguran
A nature- and adventure-based tourist destination, Cameron Highlands in West Malaysia is still highly popular in spite of newer attractions around the country and the accepted knowledge (and woes) of over-development. Located in Pahang, Cameron Highlands is part of the massive and lengthy Titiwangsa Range, appealing to local and international visitors alike due to its cool climate, mountainous terrain and rolling valleys of tea shrubs.
Arostolochia, Dutchman’s Pipe, is pretty to behold at Bala’s Chalet. Pic: Shyla Sreedharan
With so many cafes running in the main towns of Brinchang, Tanah Rata and Ringlet, one would be spoilt for choice on where to go for the right cuppa. But what about the setting? Surely one should have tea in style, possibly in the spirit of the former British Empire? That’s why teatime at the right venue is most important, in my opinion, for a complete Cameronian experience.
As a fan of black tea leaves from Cameron Highlands’ own cultivated tea plantations, I seek out the best tea beverage and the best scones with strawberry jam in Cameron Highlands. Apart from the afternoon set tea at Ye Olde Smokehouse, taking some refreshments at Bala’s Chalet offers more than just a gastronomic treat. Here’s why.
At Bala’s Chalet, there are birds. Mostly songbirds such as the Oriental Magpie Robins, Streaked Spiderhunter, Black-throated Sunbirds that flit from tree to shrub to climbers at the garden, which is probably the prettiest in all of the resorts at Cameron Highlands.
Plus there’s history, and there are plants. A lot of them!
History and Heritage of Cameron Highlands
Vines have grown over the years over facades at Bala Chalet that finds its beginnings in the 1935. Pic: Mallika Naguran
Cameron Highlands first found its roots when British geologist William Gordon Cameron mapped the area in 1885, and conveyed the secret knowledge of its resplendent mountains, “gentle slopes and plateau land” to his masters. Cameron Highlands was then developed in the 1930s as a cool retreat for those sweating away as they worked in various towns of tropical Malaysia. However, growing tea was the main motivation for British interest, apparently!
Now a four-hour ride from Kuala Lumpur or a two-hour ride from Ipoh town takes you up to Tanah Rata (1,440m), the administrative town centre of Cameron Highlands. Just a 20-minute walk or ten-minute drive from there is Bala’s Chalet.
Bala’s Chalet is shrouded in heritage. The mock Tudor-styled was built in 1935 for a boarding school, the brainchild of Miss Anne Griffith-Jones. The school began with less than 20 pupils based on the British education system.
The Second World War (1939-1945) disrupted studies and the school closed during the Japanese Occupation of Malaya (1942-1945). After the war, it reopened. However, peace did not last too long. The school became a target for the Malayan National Liberation Army during the Malayan Emergency (1948-1960). It was sold to the British War Office in 1950, and years later came under the Tanglin Trust.
Black-throated sunbird (male) loves the Thunbergia mysorensis or Lady’s slipper vine in the garden at Bala’s Chalet. Pic: Mallika Naguran
Mr. Bala thereafter acquired the property and spent the last 40 years preserving and maintaining the British charm, and expanded the original school buildings with rows of accommodation.
Leptospermum scoperium, Tea tree has colourful flowers, an attraction for the birds and bees at Bala’s Chalet in Cameron Highlands. Pic: Shyla Sreedharan
There are 35 guest rooms, from twin singles to family room complete with a loft. From many of these rooms, there are views of the garden, mountains, some tall buildings, and from a few, construction. It is hard to avoid looking or hearing construction works or the cars on the road while in Cameron Highlands no matter where you go, sadly.
However, Bala’s Chalet offers more solace compared to many others, thanks to the Tea Room and the amazing variety of garden plants. “We try to keep the rustic look of the property. If you like quiet, this is the place for you,” Bala said.
The rambling property houses the original music room of the schoolchildren, now a place for reflection with a book in hand. A fireplace dinner with a menu reminiscent of Raj India is most tempting as fog sets in, which happens sometimes.
Tea and Scones at Bala Chalet’s
The Tea Room at Bala’s Chalet is cosy and trapped in time. Pic: Mallika Naguran
I was thirsty and sought after tea after a day of trekking on one of the trails. The garden and the Tea Room on a rainy afternoon are great spots to fulfil Cameronian desires. The Tea Room is welcoming with its high backed armchairs for reading and matching rattan chairs with glass topped tables.
I was served crumbly warm scones with clotted Devonshire cream and clumpy fresh strawberry jam (RM25.45 including taxes). So yummy, I couldn’t resist a second helping of the cream and jam! The tea came with milk and there was no non-dairy creamer option.
My eyes wandered over to the display cabinets with bone china. There was silverware too that needed a polish. I had the impression that time had stopped in the tearoom. I noticed too that my plates and teacups did not match. Still, it was gratifying to have one of the best tea and scones ever.
Tea and scones at Bala’s Chalet with a view of plants, birds, butterflies and bees. Pic: Mallika Naguran
Garden Plants of Many Species
Out in the garden, there are birdbaths, pergolas, arches with climbers and creepers. It used to be cared for by gardener Mr. Kupanan for several decades before he passed away.
A botany-versed friend who’s a frequent visitor of this garden cannot sing enough praises of it. “I simply love the garden of Bala’s Chalet. When I’m in Singapore, I make my pilgrimage to Cameron Highlands and choose to stay at Bala’s Chalet,” says Shyla Sreedharan, Founder and Senior Psychotherapist, Therapy Rocks. Shyla now lives in Dallas, USA and creates beautiful gardens there too.
Among the diverse range of flora that can be spotted in there are the Arostolochia, Dutchman’s Pipe; Strelitzia reginae, Bird of paradise; Thunbergia mysorensis, Lady’s slipper vine; Hibiscus varieties; Heliconia rostrata, Crab’s claws; Plectranthus ‘Mona lavender’; Clivia miniata, Bush lily; Asclepias physocarpa, Balloon plant; and more.
The Streaked Spiderhunter draws nourishment from the Pyrostegia venusta or Flame vine at Bala’s Chalet in Cameron Highlands. Pic: Mallika Naguran
“I wouldn’t stay anywhere else in Camerons,” Shyla beamed. It is no wonder that photographers continue to seek after this country-styled garden and so do wedding couples. A fee applies for that purpose, though.
Asclepias physocarpa or Balloon plant at Bala’s Chalet is a treat to look at. Pic: Shyla Sreedharan
“The garden, in my thinking, provides the best angles (in Cameron Highlands) for photography,” says Bala. He tells me the garden had been the location for the filming of a couple of movies.
There are plans for a “vege bed” so that guests can pluck the herbs for steamboat meals. There are also facilities for BBQ, rather convenient, as the cool air and rising mists can make gatherings at the garden pretty special.
“If you like nature, you’ll like it here," said Bala.
With thanks to Shyla Sreedharan for helping to identify the plants for this article, and for supplementing the photos with her own.
The writer’s stay was hosted by the property but food and drinks were on her own tab.