Places - Latest

Bird Watch a Treat at Fraser’s Hill, Malaysia

2008-06-25T16:37:45Z

by Mallika Naguran

Long-tailed sibia moves high and restless through forest canopies.Fraser’s Hill straddling the States of Pahang and Selangor, West Malaysia is often an overlooked destination by vacation seekers but not by feathered fowl.

Birds in flight, some from as far as Siberia and islands north of Japan, are spotted in the lower montane forest that peaks at 1,310m above sea level. Some 270 species are spotted at Fraser’s Hill, out of which, 20 are migratory birds, seeking sunny yet cool climes here during treacherous winters of their originating countries.

Which is what draws discerning birders to escape to Fraser’s Hills to spy on these flighty creatures throughout the year. The Fraser’s Hill International Bird Race 2008 on 21-22 June, which began in 1988, saw 8 foreign teams participating alongside 25 local ones under expert, novice and student categories. (Watch video)

Participants did not have to try too hard to spot as many bird species across 2,804 hectares of lush greens. Fraser’s Hill is to birds what honey is to bees, and as proof, the air is filled with chirping and whistling – a joy to nature lovers and walkers alike. In the woods, cicadas compete with the call of birds. No, you don’t need your iPod here.

Even naturalists such as Dev Mahendra who conducts adventure tours based in Langkawi, Kedah is smitten. The
Expert birders Dev (left) and Chris pause for a chat and a laugh.Malaysian teamed up with his Dutch business partner Ann-Marie van Goudoever and British mate Chris Hocking, to join the competition forming the minimum requirement of three people in one participating group. This team of twitchers has chased many feathers in top bird watch spots around the world, and had heard about this spot’s reputation for sighting rare species including ones that are near threatened and vulnerable to extinction.

“It is a thrill to bird at Fraser's Hill because some of the birds are of the mountain species and you get the lowland species flying through,” says Dev. “Fraser's is not that big, that means it is easy access to bird the whole area in a couple of days. And because of its pristine forest, most of the species of the main range can be found there,” he adds.

Native to Fraser’s Hill are the silver-eared mesia (its unofficial mascot), fire tufted barbet, long tailed sibia, black throated
Chestnut-crowned laughingthrush is found in upper montane only.sunbird, chestnut-crowned laughingthrush and Blyth’s hawk eagle, to mention a few. April to June is a great time to see local resident birds, sometimes nesting or feeding their young. Migrants such as the Siberian thrush, Eurasian woodcock and white-throated needletail are best spotted from October to March (source: Birds of Fraser’s Hill by Morten Strange).

At the Fraser’s Hill Bird Race, participants have to note as many species spotted within 24 hours and submit the data to a panel of judges. The team that reports the most number of species wins prizes such as cameras, binoculars, bush gear and more.

Bird watching aside, this eco-destination delights with its varied heritage trails into the
Long-tailed sibia is Fraser's native darling.forest, hilly lodges, waterfall and colonial-styled buildings that give Fraser’s Hill its pet name - Little England. The hills are named after a mysterious Scottish adventurer and tin ore trader, James Louis Fraser, who disappeared in the early 1900s. In 1917, the British turned this forest into a hill station, eager for respite from the hot south eastern tropics.

During the Second World War, Japanese occupied Malaya and used the 1 km Hemnant forest trail to avoid exposed roads. Remains of a communications centre still stands in the site – covered in dense forest, this spot gave them radio coverage over a wide area of lowlands.

Durai stresses the use of all senses when trekking to enjoy nature.Trekking through this and other trails with an experienced guide is a great way of discovering this eco destination's heritage as well as biodiversity. K Sanadurai, a local bird specialist, trusted guide and President of Fraser’s Hill Environmentally Sustainable Heritage (FRESH) reckons nature is God’s gift to man. “Trekking into the forest makes people younger and happier,” he jokes, in between giving conservation tips and sharing forest facts.

There are, for instance, 17 species of plant climbers alone in Fraser’s, one of which holds water – great to know in case you are stranded in the middle of the forest. Wild ginger (Zingiberaceae) – and there are a number of species here – has many uses such as spices, dyes, medicines and even perfumes.

Trees are nearly 300 years old here; Durai points out one, nearly half that age, that’s slowly dying. Termites have hollowed out the massive base of the tree and the zillions of insect draw
Century-old tree, home to many creatures living interdependently.woodpeckers. The pecked out holes on the smooth trunk show where the birds must have had their meals. “The woodpeckers also nest here and their eggs attract snakes and the magpie,” he says.

Such real life lessons on ecosystems are great for children, so parents and teachers, take your kids to Fraser’s Hill during the next school vacation. Explorations in the forest and walk in the crisp cool air will put a smile on your face, not just theirs.

Walking can make you pretty thirsty. A good place to stop and rest aching feet is at the Ye Olde Smokehouse for tea and hot scones, served with fresh cream and homemade strawberry jam. However, be armed with a camera; several bird species especially the long-tailed sibia love the crumbs that stray off the garden table.

Ah, the joys of an immaculate high tea in Little England of Malaysia in the company of little chirpers.

Photos by Mallika Naguran. Bird closeup shots courtesy of Dev's Adventure Tours.
(Watch video)

Getting There: Fraser’s Hill is located around 100km from Kuala Lumpur. Take Highway 1 or the North-South Highway. If you come from the south, go through Rawang then turn right from the main highway to connect to Highway 55. This will take you up to The Gap (790m elevation).

Due to landslide on newly-built road, the Old Road is the only way to get up and down the hills, but since it is wickedly narrow, a fixed schedule exists: a gate is open each way for 40 mins starting 7am from The Gap. On the hour, traffic goes up during odd hours. Even hours are reserved for traffic coming down.

Where to Stay: A range of accommodation exists, of which two are:

Sharzan Inn at Jalan Lady Guillemard and near the town centre. It offers modest rooms, suites and apartments with a view of the golf course. Rates from RM150 (Garden View), RM455 (apartment) to RM550 (VIP Suite). Tel: +609 3622300. Enquiry: shahzan7@streamyx.com

The Smokehouse Hotel & Restaurant at Jalan Jeriau has Colonial-styled rooms and suites with jacuzzi. Rates range from RM280+ to RM400+ (+10% service charge). Tel : +609-362 2226 Enquiry: frasers@thesmokehouse.com.my

What to Do: Jungle trekking, archery, horseback riding, boating, golf and bird watching of course.

What to Pack: A warm pullover or coat as it gets pretty chilly especially at night. A good pair of binoculars and sunhat. For trail walks, a pair of trekking shoes or footwear with good grip as it can get muddy and slippery.

Don’t forget to participate in next year’s bird race in June, organised by Malaysia Nature Society and Fraser’s Hill Development Corporation. Watch this space for updates.

World Music Tunes Up Kampong Glam, Singapore

2008-06-17T08:16:02Z

Story and photos by Mallika Naguran

Sultan Mosque in Kampong Glam anchors this Muslim enclave.Singapore is probably not the country that readily springs to mind when we think of world music. This developed nation in Southeast Asia has probably more high-rise buildings dotting its coast compared to the collective high notes of symphony orchestras worldwide. Highways and traffic in the city create a greater din than the call of a million crows.

Still, there’s a well-hidden secret. In an Arabic enclave at Kampong Glam, south centre of the island, stands a quiet shop that is as unassuming as the street itself. Kampong Glam is believed to be named after the Glam sea gypsies who lived in the original Malay village southwest of the Rochor River. The only compelling figure in this area is the majestic Sultan Mosque which frames the sky with its gleaming gold dome, frequented by men with songkok (headgear) for Friday afternoon prayers.

Yet Tribal Arts, run by Sonny Wee, on a sleepy afternoon can surprise by bursting into rhythmic
Jammers outside Tribal Arts on a slow weekend. percussion and didgeridoo drone. This music drew me to locate its origin while strolling through the Muslim Heritage Centre and surrounding buildings, and I found some guys jamming just outside this shop, with Sonny joining in at the gong.

Call it a house of curios. A mind-boggling variety of musical instruments from around the world can be found here – most are new, some second hand, having carefully been restored by this proprietor, to be as good as new.

“I loved collecting musical instruments, and that’s how I started this shop a few years ago,” says Sonny. He shares how as a boy, with no formal training, he dabbled with the piano and guitar. Later he discovered the lure of drums, particularly djembe, which he now makes by hand, if not enlisting the help of trained Javanese craftsmen.

Sonny Wee flanked by little on-lookers.Passionate about hitting the right note, Sonny tunes the drumheads himself. “I have a secret recipe to season the skin, and pull it very, very hard to give it the right tautness,” he gestures showing his worn hands, which he then whacks the drum to produce quite a boom.

Students, working adults, musicians, collectors and tourists are drawn to his collection of djembe, angklong, kalemba, didgeridoo, gambus, seruling, veena, banjo, mandolin and maracas with buah kaluah, among others. Sonny has specially stocked up the kuda kepang, a Javanese totemic dance horse, due to a rising trend in cultural performances in Singapore.

Once in the store, musicians such as Firdaus Haji can’t keep his hands to himself – the range of instruments is just too irresistible. The Singapore-based graphic designer had a local band called Urban Karma and has cut two EPs and one single. He shares how he journeyed from being a hard rock guitarist to world music experimentalist. “I was intrigued by the exotic sounds and started with the harmonica, then the bagpipe, moving on to the sitar and the didgeridoo. I incorporated the Javanese kompang into my
Firdaus Haji who is Malay digs the didjeridoo. rock music.”

Firdaus bantered with the three other players in between jam sets on Tribal Arts front porch, perfecting the improvisation by trial and error and the didjeridoo amplified by synthesizers. Sonny doesn’t mind having these spontaneous sessions at his doorstep even when customers forget to shop but watch the players instead. “Many wannabes have been spotted here,” he smiles.

Taking the cue from improvisation, Sonny finds himself tasked with setting up newly discovered musicians at his shop to perform at local charity shows, even arranging the scores to blend Asian tunes with Western strains. “I’m now looking at introducing the Chinese pipa between pop segments and Hindi vocals – it produces an amazing effect. What I need is the right interpretation,” he says, lost in his own thoughts.

Tribal Arts is a favourite haunt for djembes of all sizes.Who would have thought languid Kampong Glam could go beyond its core focus of Arabic trade and Malay culture to start carving itself an offshoot - world music heritage? I pondered on this discovery as I poured myself some hot minty tea out of a curvy Moroccan brass pot at Bussorah Street, where the Saracenic Sultan Mosque looks on stout and silent.

Getting There

Tribal Arts at 71 Sultan Gate is part of the Sultan Arts Village. It is open everyday from 10 am to 9 pm.
Take the MRT to Bugis Station (EW12) and walk along Victoria Street towards Arab Street and Sultan Gate Street. Make sure you work in enough time for a bit of wander and a bite of Turkish, Arabic, Javanese, Moroccan food and more.

Contact Sonny Wee at sonnysw48@gmail.com or at +65-9726 4564.

Sustainable Wineries - Elgo Estate in Victoria

2008-06-11T04:46:03Z

Story and photos by Rebecca McNeill

Elgo Estate effluent pond recycles liquid and solid waste, suitable for irrigationA drive up the Hume Highway about an hour and a half north of Melbourne city in Victoria takes us into the lush driveway of a most unusual vineyard.

We were about to visit one that is sustainable. Elgo Estate is one of the few wineries in Australia and internationally that has a carbon negative footprint. In other words, it abrogates the effects of the pollution it does create with solutions that lower its carbon emissions.

As the charming Elgo catch cry goes, 'Wines that don't cost the Earth'.

The green movement is nothing new. People, businesses, corporations and society as a whole is learning first hand what effects climate change can have on this planet, and now even wine makers are doing their bit.

Upon glimpsing the Elgo Estate in the Strathbogie Ranges for the first time, I was perplexed to see not people, but sheep roaming the vineyard rows. Asked why this was, the chief winemaker at Elgo Estate, Cameron Atkins, said that the sheep were allowed to roam free among the vines as they reduce tractor work and fuel usage by eating the weeds.

But as we rounded the large winemaking facilities it was clear where Elgo Estate's sustainability is focussed. It has a huge
Wind energy generated powers up Elgo Estate's needs, and more is pumped back into the grid wind turbine.

Elgo Estate measured its energy requirements to maintain correct temperature year around and enable refrigeration in the early stages of white wine making. Having found that the need would be significant, the wine makers decided to commit to sustainability.

Generating its own electricity from the wind is one way in which the Australian winery not only reduces its carbon footprint, but ensures it goes into negative territory, which is a plus for the environment. The 150kW wind turbine generates clean and green electricity and powers everything at the winery, saving about 1 tonne of greenhouse gas per day.

Often it generates more electricity than Elgo Estate can use, so excess energy is diverted back to the main power grid, which can supply the energy needs of around 34 homes.

Carbon dioxide from fermenting process is recycled to another barrelHermine and Guntar Taresch own the Elgo Estate winery and made their first commercial wines in 2004, and as well as making sure that hundreds of sheep dot their vineyards to do the weeding, they also ensure that native trees and grasses are planted around the property.

The winery recycles all grey water for use on the vineyards, has significant rain water tanks to collect rain fall. The winery even recycles effluent and other liquids from the wine making process. The solid waste and aeration of the waste water in specially constructed effluent ponds lowers the high organic load of winery effluent, making it acceptable for irrigation.

Even the grape skins are recycled, sometimes combined with chicken manure, and tilled into the ground as fertilizer for the vines, ensuring the plants deliver ripe fruit.

Of course, there was also the temptation of the various wines from both the Elgo and Allira wine labels. The 2004 Pinot Noir is very good. The range of cool-climate Victorian wines is definitely getting better, and this drop is no exception. Also of note are the Elgo Estate and Allira label Semillion Blanc and Chardonnay varietals, showcasing the 'fresh and elegant' feel towards which Atkins' strives.

The main reason we headed to the Elgo Estate winery was to see the sustainable systems it has in place, and it was impressive to see how organic their processes were.

And a good glass of wine always helps.

Getting There

The Elgo Estate winery and vineyards are located in the Upton Hill region of the Strathbogie Ranges of Central Victoria. Turning off the Hume Freeway midway between Avenel and Euroa, you climb your way up into the Ranges through picturesque farming country. At the very top you will find yourself at Upton Hill, the home of Elgo Estate.

Upton Road (enter via Gate 1), Upton Hill, Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria
Postal Address: RMB 6170 James Road, Longwood, Victoria 3665
Telephone: 61 3 5798 5563 Facsimile: 61 3 5798 5524
Email: info@elgoestate.com.au

Elgo Estate is open by appointment for tasting and tours.

Article republished from WebWombat.

Coconut for eco-living at T’shop Lai, Laos

2008-05-26T07:47:26Z

Story by Thin Lei Win

Renewable is all that Mimi uses in T'Shop Lai, VientianneDon’t start talking to Michel Saada about coconuts unless you have time to spare. The exuberant Frenchman is an authority on coconuts and is known to wax lyrical on the eco-friendliness of coconuts plus the huge number of things that can be derived from, a single nut.

Affectionately known as Mimi, the artist first came to Laos 15 years ago and immediately fell in love, both with the country and the fruit - one of the cheapest and most abundant natural resources in Laos.

“I came with not much money. I used to work in the restaurant business before in Paris. I didn’t know what to do but then I made a necklace out of a broken coconut ladle and I thought, wow,” Mimi grinned.

He wanted to produce products using renewable materials and started a small workshop in a coconut plantation on the edge of Vientiane. Then in 1997, Mimi, established T’Shop Lai, a charming boutique selling original handicrafts made from recycled wood or non-timbre forest products such as coconut and bamboo.

The three-storey T’Shop Lai is very much like its founder – warm, friendly and full of interesting ideas, and filled with the sweet scent of its products. Coconut-based goods are everywhere – mirrors, vases, board games, toy boxes, tiles and tables.

A coconut shell table with fish scale design takes centre stage, the beautiful pattern formed by painstakingly gluing cut up individual pieces. “It took four people around two weeks to finish it,” he said.
Organic coconut essence in soaps

Everything from the fruit is used and nothing is wasted. While the shell is used for accessories, furniture, kitchen utensils and home decorations, the copra (coconut flesh) is processed into soaps, creams, lip balms, lipsticks and virgin coconut oil, in lip-smacking concoctions such as vanilla, orange and citronella.

The coconut juice provides nourishment to the staff designing the products while the leftover flesh and shell become fertilisers. Even the spine from the leaves and the tree bark are woven into pretty baskets to hold the products, and everything is handmade, including Mimi’s name card.

His next project is the Les Artisans Lao workshop and showroom, a project which began in 2004, to provide on-the-job training and employment to disadvantaged Lao people, especially women. Most of the products in T’Shop Lai are a result of their creations.

Go nuts over balms and oilsSo the next time you’re in Vientiane, make sure to check out Mimi’s coconut products. The money goes to a good cause and you get a good treat.

T’Shop Lai, Vat Inpeng, Vientiane, Laos

Tel: +856 2122 3178

For information on natural handicraft, do drop in at Artisans Lao and Lao Coco

Visit Gallery for more photos. Photos courtesy of Stay Another Day.

Malaysia Boleh - Penang World Music Festival

2008-05-08T10:32:18Z

Story by Mallika Naguran

To paraphrase, it’s “Malaysia can”. This arm-thrusting slogan was coined to reflect Malaysia’s sentiment to conquer all odds.
Penang rocks! Politicians grunt it, and so do foreign music performers, apparently, when they feel the masses move beneath their hands.

And move they did the hearts, bodies and minds of bright-eyed Asian folks at the second annual Penang World Music Festival held at the charming quarry garden flanking the Botanical Gardens in Penang Island. Young and old bobbed and grooved to the strains, vocals and rhythm of 11 international bands from Croatia, Reunion Islands, France, Kenya, Denmark, Tibet (famed and exiled Techung), Mexico, Iran, India, Canada and US of A. See line up below and watch this section for album reviews and interviews.

Rhythmic percussion by Kumpulan Dendang Anak.The infectious Kumpulan Dendang Anak of Trengganu, one of the four Malaysian bands to be featured, roused the crowds to their feet with their gendangs, rebanas, konpangs and more. They proved that age-old traditions and heritage still, to this day, send a tingle. “We brought back folk music that existed 600-700 years ago that would have otherwise gone extinct,” beamed leader and performer Zulkifli Ismail who blends gongs and gamelans with the acoustic guitar.

“Everybody plays for tradition,” said Gilberto Guttierez of Mexican Mono Blanco, adding that where they come from, the farm, that is, happy hour equals song, dance and music, of course.

Tradition need not be boring or out of date, and this perhaps is the beauty of world music where a bit of experimentation
DYA Singh passes down generations of hymns.fuses myriad of tones from different sound boxes. It doesn’t matter where it comes from, what it’s made of or which century it originated in. The tabla for instance, an ethnic Indian percussion instrument, served centre stage in DYA Singh played by world-renowned Nepalese-born Dheeraj Shrestra. The group mixes beats of tabla with Greek bouzouki, harmonium and the Australian didgeridoo. “The beauty of the group is the spirit of the music, dance and rhythm,” says Dheeraj. Watch Dheeraj perform this 10 May at Nepalese Pagoda, South Bank, Brisbane.

George Achiem resurrects oruto's appeal in Kenge Kenge.Kenge Kenge’s dynamic leader and lead vocalist George Achiem resurrected a dying string instrument he saw being played in the market when he was a little boy. The one-string oruto provides a feminine counterpoint to pounding beats, between booming drums and calls of the rustic horn of this band from sunripe Kenya. “The whole band uses traditional instruments, some with eight strings, some with one. We really love our culture,” he grinned.

And so did we. For three days, Malaysians and tourists, even invited journalists, were mesmerized by the mind-blowing cultural experience. “This is what world music should be, full of ordinary people, children and screaming teenagers appreciating the acts, most of which are of very high standard,” said Singapore writer, actor and musician Joe Ng. “I stopped going to WOMAD of Singapore few years back because it became such a soulless, yuppie thing.”

Even the absence of alcohol sale on the grounds did not deter anyone from getting a bit high during the three-day packed concert beginning May 2.
Electric and eclectic Afenginn infuse wild Nordic folk with Finnish nuances on the mandolin.The music itself did the trick in lifting the spirits and screwing the brains (blame it on the Danish lot, Afenginn) with traditional instruments, lilting folklore, syncopated beats, surreal chants and head banging rhythms.

George Achiem best sums up the value of upholding traditions. “When we play our music overseas, we leave a bit of our culture behind and we learn new cultures from others.” This cultural exchange binds people together as they see beyond their inner worlds to understand and appreciate different perspectives.

“Music is the universal language, man,” said Brian the keyboardist of Techung as he pumped fists with Mame Khan, Badila’s Rajahstani singer at the post concert party. “I didn’t understand what you sang, man, but you know what, it didn’t matter. It’s all in the music, man.”

Music is the universal language.I couldn’t agree more. If I were you, I’d make a date for the next Penang World Music Festival about the same time next year. Don’t forget to stay on for a few more days as Penang is lovely and harbours the best Malaysian food, like my favourite spicy sour assam laksa. Or if you can’t wait that long, head on down to the sizzling Sarawak Rainforest Festival 11-13 July. Book now to avoid disappointment - it’s a sell out I hear.

Akan Datang! Watch this space for more world music previews and reviews. View show video and more photos in Gallery.

Coming up soon: Afenginn on cheerful melancholy and rational madness. Only they can make this happen. Listen to their tracks here.

Coming up sooner: Internationally-acclaimed Techung writes the songs for Tibetan freedom

Gaia Discovery Rates the Show

Friday May 2 Day One

DYA SINGH (PENANG & AUSTRALIA) ***

TEADA (IRELAND) ****

KUMPULAN DENDANG ANAK (TERENGGANU, MALAYSIA) ***

MONO BLANCO (MEXICO) **

AFENGINN (DENMARK) *****

SALEM TRADITION (REUNINON ISLANDS) *****

Saturday May 3 Day Two

KUMPULAN KINABALU MERSU SOUND (SABAH) **

BADILA (IRAN, INDIA, FRANCE) ***

GALANT, TU PERDS TON TEMPS (CANADA) ***

DIPLOMATS OF DRUMS (KUALA LUMPUR, MALAYSIA) *

KRIES (CROATIA) ***

Sunday May 4 Last Day

TECHUNG (TIBET) ***** Watch videos

BALFA TOUJOURS (USA) ***

LO COR DE LA PLANA (FRANCE) *****

AFENGINN (DENMARK) *****

* Loo time

** Nice, but where’s the oomph?

*** You got me

**** Yeah baby yeah

***** Call the police. Roof is falling down here!

This show was made possible by the Ministry of Tourism Malaysia and Penang Tourism Action Council. It was made successful with resourceful festival artistic director Yeoh Jun-Lin and brilliant sound producer Niall Macaulay of Cheer Productions.

Photos by Joe Ng, Tourism Malaysia and Mallika Naguran

Ecotourism Training Centre - From Dread to Dive Masters

2008-04-21T09:45:03Z

Story by Mallika Naguran

ETC 2008 students get ready for a big feast It is not everyday we hear stories of youths getting that golden opportunity to turn their lives around. One such story I picked up on the web made me pack my bags in a hurry to go and witness the miracle for myself.

Off I set from Singapore to Thailand’s idyllic Kao Lak coast in Phang-Nga province of Thailand. I gave just a week’s notice to Reid Ridgway, the founder of Ecotourism Training Centre, who simply emailed back, “Drop in and see us anytime.”

ETC, as it is known in short, found its roots just after the devastation caused by the Asian Tsunami in 2004 that claimed more than a quarter of a million lives. The centre helps rebuild lives of youths who lost their homes, parents or livelihood during the catastrophe. This through learning new skills such as English language and computer literacy, advanced emergency care and marine conservation leading to certifications as PADI master divers.
Students have done incredible work in marine conservation, coastal clean up, community building, with recent efforts to spearhead the use of bio-diesel fuel in dive boats. They have also taught more than 150 local youths to dive and care for the environment.

Considering that most of the students enrolled in ETC have not gone past primary school education, never used a computer before and could only manage spattering English, their personal accomplishments put me to shame. Not everyone can be a diver, let alone a dive master or an instructor (I should know - I dive yet can’t muster enough strength to tow an injured body against choppy water). It takes a whole load of grit too, as tests are conducted in English - a foreign language to Thais.

ETC 2007 students in a joint cleanup of Thai Muang Marine National Park with Green Fins Masters of Sea

Three years since its inception, the centre has groomed 10 PADI dive instructors and 31 PADI dive masters. Typically between 17 to 34 in age, the graduates have found jobs that befit their newly acquired status: some with the Thai Royal Navy as rescue divers and others with scuba dive shops as instructors or dive masters, supplementing the ever increasing demand for qualified dive personnel. Thailand boasts many amazing reefs and coral pinnacles at Phi Phi, Sumilan and Surin islands, and as such, draws marine divers from around the world, as clown fish would to anemone.

Sarah Chernecki suffers the lack of nachos in Thai but loves her work I had the opportunity of mingling with 15 youths currently undergoing ETC training who charmed me with their demeanour, between blushes and grins. “I am very lucky to be on this program,” says Ong, who is a divorced young father in his 30s, supporting three kids. This amiable man was orphaned at birth; he left school to earn scanty income as a tut tut (cabbie) driver on the dusty roads of Bangkok. Last year, upon hearing about the ETC program, he ditched his vehicle and headed to ETC to try his luck.

Ong was indeed lucky. With professional diving certification, he looks forward to a job that could potentially pay 50,000-60,000 baht (USD$2,500) a month. A waiter, I learned by snooping, earns a meagre USD $150 a month. With the costs of living on the rise such as rice, oil and property, it is no surprise that quite a number of Thais are in desperation.

Renewal Through Relearning

Troubled times can make way for opportunities. Only skills, knowledge and training can bring this about to match the rising wave of ecotourism. Plus, undying vision and commitment from people who run and fund the program.

Writer Mallika can't help giving Dach (left) and Ong (right) a hug Sarah Chernecki, a Canadian who packed her bags and headed to Southeast Asia to help the impoverished in Thailand since 2007, teaches English and leadership skills at ETC. “As dive masters, they have to communicate well and exude confidence to win over tourists who seem to prefer one of their own kind to guide them underwater,” says Sarah.

Each year, more and more youths turn up at the doors to try getting into the program, but unfortunately, some are turned away. Funding aside, applicants are screened on their backgrounds as the centre strives to help only those who need rescuing from difficult circumstances. Fitness levels count too, as students have to undergo rescue diving drills, which can be strenuous.

Help Rebuild Lives

It takes only USD 2,500 to see a youth through this unique 9-month program. Do help to open more doors for the enthusiastic Thai youths who may otherwise be left behind, often times in deprived conditions and with a dim future. If sponsoring the full amount is beyond you, why not split the cost with family and friends?

On (left), female ETC graduate and dive instructor, cleans up Thai Muang Marine National Park Read more inspiring student testimonies on www.etcth.org and support them by sponsoring a student or buying their merchandise.

Photos by Mallika Naguran and ETC.

Valley of the Giants, W Australia

2008-03-30T10:32:30Z

These trees truly are giants of the forest.In Spain, the man called Magellan was provisioning his ships for what would be the first time anyone would ever sail around our world. On the other side of the planet, deep in a forest in what is now known as Western Australia, a seed dropped from a massive tree onto the carpet of gum leaves beneath.

Magellan never made it back in person, but his fleet sailed triumphally back to Spain, and changed the world. By that time, the seed had germinated, sprung roots, and was busy growing into a sapling reaching for the forest canopy 80 metres above. Since then, billions of people have travelled round the world. Dynasties, kingdoms, inventions and global wars have utterly changed our environment. But the same tree, well over 400 years old now, is still standing, flowering once every four years to complete the cycle of life it started seven generations ago.

Experience the forest canopy just as it was 400 years ago.The tree is the Red Tingle (eucalyptus jacksonii), which traces its origins back to the prehistoric forests of Gondwanaland, one of the original continents which split apart to form Australia some 50 million years ago. Originally born in the wet and temperate climate that covered many parts of Australia, the Red Tingle has clung on in this tiny patch, confined to about 6,000 hectares of native forest and nowhere else in the world.

"The problem was that in the 1980s, people started to realise what a treasure these trees were, and started hiking into what we now call the Valley of the Giants," says Julie Ross, Business Manager at the Walpole Nornalup National Park, WA. "Increasing numbers of visitors began erode the normal habitat, to upset the drainage and underforest composition, with the result that some of the bigger trees died and fell."

The WA government, through its National Parks arm, decided this unique natural feature needed urgent protection but one that would still allow visitors to see the huge gum trees and their unique hollow trunks, in some cases big enough for people to shelter in.

The solution was to build a series of treetop-high 60 metre walkways that gradually take visitors to the forest canopy 40 metres above the now-protected forest floor. Now 12 years old, it has taken nearly 2.5 million people into intimate contact with the Red Tingles, but with no harm to their environment - only five square metres of the forest was cleared to build the walkway.

Trees that grow 80m high need natural buttresses."Building the walk saved many of these trees," says Tom, one of the park rangers. "They have relatively shallow roots, which spread as they grow older, resulting in the unique buttressed trunk that gets hollowed out at the bottom by fungi, insects and fire. If walkers had carried on coming here and disturbing the area round the base of the trees too much, it would have ruined the root system and endangered the health and stability of the trees they had come to see."

Now, thanks to the Tree Top Walk, some 200-300,000 people a year enjoy the unique calm of this deep and ancient forest, and sound of the wind whispering in gum leaves. Exactly the same sound that Magellan would have heard if he had taken a different route and landed in WA about 450 years ago.

Even forest giants start off as saplings.Getting there:
The Valley of the Giants is about five hours (400km) drive south of Perth, capital of Western Australia (WA) with its international airport. Hiring a car is the best way to get there; rental cars range from A$50-80 a day.

Activities:
Walking, Night Animal-spotting, Winery visits (Denmark Shire), Surfing (Nornalup)

Nearby Attractions:
Whaling station (Albany), Logging museum (Manjimup), Mount Barker National Park, Bibbulmum Long Distance Track (www.bibbulmuntrack.org.au)

Accommodation:
Hotels/Motels from A$100 per night
Guest Houses from A$80

www.valleyofthegiants.com.au

Photos by Jeremy Torr and /Walpole Nornalup National Park, WA.

Eco Chic Boutique, Laos

2008-03-10T10:31:49Z

Story by Thin Lei Win

Organic dyes protect our planetWhen people plan for a trip to Luang Prabang, they think of glittering temples, saffron-robed monks and a destination to restore one’s weary soul. Few know about the bustling night markets with their colourful wares or the impressive number of boutiques dedicated to showcasing Laos’ unique and long-standing tradition of arts, crafts and textiles.

Kopnoi is a case in point. Meaning ‘little frog’ in Laos, the boutique-gallery is the brainchild of French-Canadian couple and long-term Luang Prabang residents Isabel Drean and Simon Cote and their business partner Nathalie Pouliot.

Located on a street at the foot of the famous Phousi Hill, Kopnoi began in 2002 when they started developing eco-dyed organic cotton apparel to export to Canada. The idea grew and the Export Promotion Centre was opened in November 2005. Now the shop boasts a delightful mix of products that are authentically "made in Laos", as Kopnoi’s tagline suggests.

Coconut shells re-used as lamp shadesIsabel says, "The idea was to develop a high-quality collection designed and produced in Laos with fair trade principles. We also wanted to give the world access to Lao products."

Walk through the doorway of the restored two-storey building and you’ll be confronted with an amalgam of products ranging from spices and Lao Mountain Coffee varieties (one of the best brands and works with the country’s only fair trade coffee cooperative) to home ware and toiletries produced by the disadvantaged artisans from Les Artisans Lao.

On the left is the original seed of Kopnoi high quality, colourful, eco-dyed cotton fashion items for the family and available in European sizes. Hanging from the ceiling and placed in flowerpots are coconut shell lamps and on the right are beautiful Lao silver jewellery and an impressive selection of books on Laos.

Working with villages, non-governmental organisations and not-for-profit producers, Isabel says producers are chosen "on the basis of the quality, unique designs and the ability to sustain these two through time."

Simon and Isabel are also art directors for the gallery upstairs, which regularly hosts interesting exhibitions related to Laos. It is currently holding "Stay Another Day", a multi-media exhibition urging travellers to stay longer and spend more money locally.

Made in Laos where beauty meets qualityKopnoi, Ban Aphay, Luang Prabang (across L’Etranger, Books & Tea), Laos
Tel: +856 (0) 71 260 248
www.madeinlaos.com

Photos courtesy of Stay Another Day

Lip Smacking Malaysia Gourmet Festival

2008-03-01T11:30:48Z

Back flip pulled teaA trip to Malaysia will not be complete without sampling its authentic cuisine, and there are quite a few, from breakfast to late night supper, the latter to serve as essential tummy liners to pub-crawlers.

Even in the heart of Kuala Lumpur city, you might stumble upon a few finds. Like the mamak (or Indian) shops for hot, crispy roti canai (made of wheat flour, egg and ghee, this is also known in Singapore as roti prata) served with a choice of chicken, fish or dhal curry. Malaysians add a dollop of spicy sambal (chilli paste) in the curry and use their fingers to eat the bread.
Nasi Kandar Pelita along Jalan Ampang and opposite of Chorus Hotel is consistently good with its fast food rendition of Indian Muslim food which includes variations of roti canai (plain, tissue, bom, with egg, banana or shredded meat), all interesting and downright tasty.

Roti canai in different varietiesMamak shops serve the popular teh tarik, literally known as pulled tea, which gives it the tantalising froth. Mr Moor Sazali, at the opening of the Malaysian International Gourmet Festival, drew gasps from 2,000 VIP guests as he twisted, twirled and even bent backwards yoga like to create frothy goodness.

Dollops of Malaysian Cuisine
Indeed, this celebration of food is no storm in a teacup for the Malaysian authorities that are bent on spreading the fame of local cuisine to the rest of the world. This includes issuing RM200 million worth of loans pooled to fund restaurant proprietors and investors in setting up bases outside the country.Malaysia has over 350 restaurants operating globally and this is to be upped to 8,000 by year 2015 to forge a stronger gourmet destination identity.

"The challenge is to develop a pool of Malaysian chefs and to export them to the world," said Mr Mohd Rosly Selamat, the chief operating officer of Pempena, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Tourism Malaysia. Mr Selamat shared that an existing programme exists which invites overseas chefs to Malaysia where they get to sample and prepare local dishes. Malaysia Kitchen intends to promote gastronomic by-products such as sauces and condiments to the world, plus local culture and handicrafts (tableware, décor and music) through these restaurants.

Chef IsmailThirty restaurants participated in the month-long international gourmet festival beginning 2 November 2007, which is a step up from a mere 13 in 2001 when it first started. A Malaysia Truly Asian Cuisine showcase saw master chefs dabbling with local ingredients to create a dish that would typify Malaysia.

A definite step in the direction of savouring Malaysia’s heritage I say, as I help myself to another serving of Nescafe tarik (pulled coffee).

Heritage Tantalizes Tastebuds
More can be done, though, like profiling more authentic Malaysian restaurants in tourist literature and websites, banning the use of meat from endangered sources such as shark’s fin especially during gourmet festivals and encouraging local chefs to uphold traditional ways of food preparation and presentation.

Cuisines like and Aunty Aini’s Cafe, Rebung and Enak go a long way in restoring old - in some cases, dying - practices. Authentic dishes are environmental friendly too as ingredients are prepared using manual means and handmade tools as opposed to electrical appliances.

Chef Ismail of Rebung restaurant uses his grandmother’s old coconut grater in his restaurant, partly for sentimental reasons, and the other, to extract the best flavour from the fruit. "Food tastes better when prepared with love," he quipped.

Chefs making musicGive a Thought to the Environment
In authentic Malay cuisines, local produce is used most of the time, depending on seasonal harvests. Meat is gotten from local farms such as the kampong chicken that are free to roam and grow naturally. And where the only steroid used is sunshine.

Eating fresh is one thing. Not buying foreign produce means saying no to mass and over production - what we often see rows after rows of packed frozen and chilled goods in supermarkets. Frozen products also use up more energy in packing, storage and transportation.

If we switched to eating fresh at least half the week by way of buying from the local market or growing own vegetables and herbs, supermarkets would stock up half of existing supplies, there would be fewer cargo flights, fewer delivery trucks on the roads, less exploitation of land for farming, and less carbon and methane emissions.

Returning to basics, going back to simplicity and revisiting age-old practices is something everybody should seriously consider, especially the organisers of the next Malaysian International Gourmet Festival. It will be gentler on Mother Nature, and certainly gentler on our health.

Make a date to visit Malaysia during 2008 Malaysian International Gourmet Festival that takes place all around the country during 1-30 November. Visit www.migf.com for details.

Potos by Mallika Naguran.

Kingfisher Eco Lodge, Laos

2008-02-02T11:30:14Z

A room for soft moments

Story by Thin Lei Win

If location is key, then Kingfisher is already onto something. It sits at the edge of Khiat Ngong village, overlooking the untouched wetlands in the 24,000-kilometre square Xe Pian National Park in Southern Laos, one of the most important biodiversity areas in Indochina and known for its large mammals and rare water birds.

Italian Massimo Mera, who set up Kingfisher with his Lao wife Bangon in February 2006, says they were looking for a relatively untouched place. True enough, Kingfisher has plenty of natural beauty for everyone to enjoy, whether you’re staying in the deluxe stilt wooden bungalows or the more humble economy rooms built by wood and bamboo.

The bungalows, blending modern comforts with local materials, are worth splashing out for. The ceiling-to-floor glass front wall provides an unobstructed view of the wetlands. The shower also has all-glass doors so you can still enjoy the hues of the wetland even while you’re bathing.

Both lighting and shower are solar powered, and each balcony boasts a locally made massive hammock, perfect for whiling away the time with a book or a Sundowner or two. It helps that the two-storey open restaurant stocks a good selection of wine and cocktails, in addition to tasty Lao and western dishes.

However, it hasn’t been all plain sailing. Marketing has been difficult given the limited financial resources, but they are seeing a steady increase in customers. The more pressing issue is human resources.

Comfy bungalowsMassimo says, “Employees and in particular skilled ones are a rare resource in Laos. This is a difficult task because it is our policy to try to employ local people as much as possible. We train them and once they start to learn something often they leave.”

Still, the couple believes in giving back to the community. It uses local produce, actively promotes activities that involve services from the local villagers (elephant trekking tours to an ancient site is most popular) and 5% of the income from these activities goes towards supporting the local primary school.

For those who think ‘eco’ means ‘uncomfortable and inconvenient’, Massimo has this to say, “Eco means that we are trying as much as possible to stay in contact with nature without spoiling it. We try to have as little impact as possible on the environment. We help, in our little way, to develop the local economy.”

Rainbow connection in LaoIf you’re looking for getting back to nature without sacrificing a good sleep, then check out Kingfisher. There are no TVs, telephones or music. It’s all about you and the wetlands – without the distractions.

Photos by Thin Lei Win

Getting there:
Kingfisher is an hour’s drive from Pakse, the capital of Champasak. The easiest way to get there is by a minivan arranged through a travel agency or hotel in Pakse. For a cheaper option, it is also possible to hire tuk-tuks.

Activities:
Elephant Trekking, Mountain Biking, Hiking, Village Visits, Bird Watching

Attractions
Phou Asa archaeological site, Ta Ong village, Xe Pian National Park

Room rates
Bungalows start from US$38 during off-peak (US$43 during peak seasons) and economy rooms from US$14 during off-peak and US$17 during peak.

http://www.kingfisherecolodge.com